According to the American Veterinary Dental Society, 70% of cats and 80% of dogs suffer from some form of dental disease by the time they are 3 years old! Oral hygiene and regular dental care are important factors in maintaining your pet’s overall health and well-being, but this is the one area in which pet owners fail their animals more than any other. Why? Because oral care typically isn’t on our “pet health” radar. Thinking about brushing a cat’s or dog’s teeth can sound silly or impossible, right? Think again! It can be done and it is an important part of your pet’s overall care. We would have a hard time going our whole life without brushing our teeth or having our teeth cleaned. The same can be said about our pets and it is up to us to make this vital change.


WHAT DOES A HEALTHY MOUTH LOOK LIKE? Before you learn how to take care of your pet’s teeth (and what will happen if you don’t) you need to understand what a healthy mouth looks like in the first place. A healthy mouth is free of plaque and tartar (hard, scaly or sticky discolorations). The teeth should also be intact and not jagged. Make sure the tongue is moist with no visible lumps or cuts. Your pet’s gums should be pink, not red or swollen.


PETS ARE SILENT SUFFERERS: Keep in mind that pets are silent sufferers, and it is rare to notice signs of gum disease unless it is very advanced. However, look out for these signs that your pet may be experiencing oral disease or a condition that needs to be seen and treated by your veterinarian immediately: Drooling, reluctance to eat, dropping food, blood in water bowl or on chew toys, making noises while eating, bad or foul-smelling breath or turning the head to the side when eating.


IF NOT TREATED: The ultimate goal is to clean your pet’s teeth daily (and if you can’t do it daily, at least 3 times a week) before plaque hardens into tartar. Gingivitis, a form of gum disease, is usually reversible with treatment (cleaning at home and by your vet), but if not addressed, it can progress into the more serious periodontitis (gums pulling away from teeth, bone and tooth loss), which can cause significant pain and affect your dog or cat’s overall health and well-being. Bacteria from the infection can enter the pet’s bloodstream and spread throughout the body, causing damage to the heart, liver and kidneys.


Dr. Lynn Wilson, a Volusia County based veterinarian with over 20 years of experience, has seen this firsthand. She states, “Further damage to your pet’s organs from poor oral health care is not uncommon. In fact, it can shorten your pet’s life by 3 to 5 years.” A good oral home routine for your pet could help to avoid many costly vet visits which might require dental x-rays and anesthesia. On average, a dental cleaning with anesthesia costs anywhere from $400 to $900. As Dr. Wilson points out, “avoiding these issues is all about preventative care and setting up a home routine. If you have a good home care plan, you may never need to put your pet under anesthesia for a tooth cleaning, but this can be determined at your yearly vet visit,” she adds.


There are a variety of ways to keep your pet’s mouth clean and healthy. We will discuss the brushing and no-brushing products and techniques below.


  1. BRUSHING PRODUCTS: You probably don’t want to share your own toothbrush with your pet, so here are a few products to get you started:


  • PET TOOTHBRUSH AND PASTE: (most effective method): Daily brushing with flavored dog and cat enzymatic toothpaste is the BEST and most efficient way to prevent dental disease. Choose a toothpaste made specifically for your pet and is listed as enzymatic (containing glucose oxidase to reduce bacteria). Never use human toothpaste as it could harm your pet. There are many brands and flavors to choose from (my cat and dog LOVE the poultry flavor) and a wide array of toothbrushes, finger brushes, or simple gauze pads designed with your pet in mind.
  • DENTAL WIPES: There are presoaked dental wipes (even finger pads) for dogs and cats. You place the wipe firmly around your finger, lift up the flap of your pet’s mouthand swipe the teeth and gums. Use daily.


  • ON A BUDGET? There are pet toothpaste recipes available online that can get you started with a few basic and inexpensive ingredients using baking soda and a simple cloth.


  • TIPS TO SUCCEED WITH BRUSHING: Begin by gently touching your pet’s face, mouth, gums and teeth on a daily basis (called desensitizing). After your pet is use to this, allow him to lick some of the pet toothpaste off your finger. Some will view this time as a special treat if they love the flavor you choose, like my own dog and cat! Next, begin rubbing your finger/toothpaste over a few teeth (no need to open his mouth at this point – just stick your finger on either side of his mouth for a quick swipe). Once he is used to this, gradually introduce the toothbrush, finger brush, or pads, beginning with a small area and gradually increasing to the whole mouth. Be sure to brush both the teeth and gums. Be patient with this process. Your pet will eventually get use to the routine. Cats may take a little longer than dogs, but it can be done. Always conclude each session with praise, petting, and a special treat, even if it didn’t go so well.
  • NO BRUSHING PRODUCTS: There are other methods to remove plaque and tartar without brushing your pet’s teeth. These methods may not give the same effectiveness as -brushing with pet toothpaste- would, but they are still a great start to good oral health.


  • WATER ADDITIVES: A non-toxic, tasteless water additive for dogs and cats. Safely neutralizes bad breath and fights tartar, plaque, and gum disease. Just add to their water bowl daily. Remember to leave out two bowls of water (with and without the additive) in case your pet doesn’t like it.


  • ORAL CARE GEL/SPRAY: Helps remove plaque and tartar. Apply 2 drops of gel (or spray) to each side of your pet’s mouth. Withhold food for 30 minutes before and after treatment for best results. This product can be placed directly on any tartar buildup. Use daily.


  • CHEW TOYS AND DENTAL TREATS: Look online or visit a few pet stores for special pet chews made specifically for dogs or cats that contain enzymes which help dissolve tartar before it hardens into plaque. There are also a broad range of dental cat and dog treats. A popular dental treat readily available in most stores is called “Greenies.” Just find one your pet loves!


  • VETERINARIAN-PRESCRIBED PET FOODS: There are foods designed with your pet’s dental health in mind. Contact your veterinarian to see if this is the right route for you. Never rely on regular kibble or dry food to remove tartar and plaque as these simply do not work. On a side note, cats need some canned wet food in their daily diets in order to maintain a long and healthy life.

For more info on the importance of wet food, click here – 


IN SUMMARY: Good and consistent dental care, including yearly vet visits and a daily routine, is essential for your pet’s overall health and long life. We know dental care isn’t something that is discussed often enough and you probably had no idea how important it was, but now that you do, we hope you will make this change as your pet will have a happier & longer life.






Trimming your cat’s claws every few weeks is an important part of keeping your pet well-groomed. It also helps preserve your couch, drapes and other furniture.

Nail-trimming is fast, effective and much more humane than declawing, which involves surgical amputation and can cause behavioral and major health issues.

Unlike a dog, a cat’s claws are retractable. Since they don’t touch the ground when a cat walks, they’re not worn away naturally like a dog’s are. Cats instinctively know they need to sharpen their claws to keep them at a manageable length. Cats that spend part of their time outdoors need sharp claws to climb trees or otherwise defend themselves against other animals. They will usually sharpen their claws on trees and other natural objects. However, indoor cats have no need for sharp claws, but still have this urge to scratch.

With our own indoor ninja cat named Solo, we cut his nails every two weeks (I set my phone to remind me) in order to preserve our furniture while he navigates through his crazy kitten phase in his first year. Meanwhile, we are teaching him where he should and shouldn’t exercise his scratching urges by redirecting him to various scratching posts.

If the idea of trimming your cat’s nails still has you biting your own, rest assured that all it takes is some patience and a bit of practice to sharpen your skills.

Now, let’s get started. In this article, we will go over the tools and techniques for a successful manicure for your favorite feline.

  • What to Use: There are plenty of tools available to trim a cat’s claws; use the one that works best for you and your pet. Dogs require special nail clippers, but cats don’t. Some people prefer a special pair of scissors modified to hold a cat’s claw in place, but I personally prefer regular human nail clippers. Why? Well, as I mentioned before, I have a ninja cat on my hands and I need to be fast and confident when I’m trimming his nails. Few cats will remain patient for the time it takes to cut all his nails, so you don’t want to waste valuable time fumbling around with clippers you’re not used to. Whatever your tool, be sure the blade remains sharp; the blunt pressure from dull blades may hurt an animal and cause a nail to split or bleed.


  • Setting the Mood: Choose a quiet place to avoid scaring the pet. Because cats’ temperaments and dispositions vary greatly, there is no “perfect” way to handle a cat while trimming their claws. Some cats do well with no restraint at all, but most cats need to be held firmly but gently against your body to make sure that no one gets hurt. Choose a chair or sit on the floor in a quiet room where you can hold your cat comfortably in the crook of your arm or on your lap. Wrapping your cat gently in a towel can give your cat a sense of security and helps hold her still while you work. Make sure no other pets are around and try to get her when she’s relaxed or sleepy, like in her groggy, after-meal state. If you have a helper, now’s their time to shine. They can assist by holding the cat while you clip, or maybe just distracting her with some head scratching, a toy or a favorite treat.


  • Cut to the Chase, But Not to the Quick: Start by pressing down gently on the paw. This will extend the claws outward. Clip only the sharp tip no more than 1/8 of an inch of the white or transparent tip of the nail. Make sure not to cut the pink part of the nail, also known as the quick, as this is where blood vessels and nerve endings begin. This is just like the pink part of your own fingernails, and if you cut into that area it will cause bleeding and pain. If you should accidentally nip the nail too short and bleeding starts, apply a little pressure to the very tip of the claw. Don’t squeeze the whole paw, as that will increase the bleeding. To stop the bleeding, dip the claw in a little styptic powder or cornstarch, or rub the nail across a dry bar of soap. At this point, you should leave the rest of the nails for another day, but keep an eye out to make sure the bleeding stops quickly. It’s usually not necessary to cut the rear claws, but check them occasionally, and if they appear excessively long or are starting to curve inward, they should also be trimmed. Cats are usually less tolerant of having their rear claws clipped, so this may take a few attempts.


  • Nail Cutting: Cats have a natural desire to sharpen their claws. To keep them from destroying your furniture while satisfying this urge, it’s important to begin cutting your cat’s nails every two weeks, if possible. Developing a routine of regular nail cutting will allow your cat and your couch to co-exist peacefully.
  • Scratching Posts: It’s also recommended that you provide a few various scratching posts (vertical and horizontal) that allow your cat to stretch out and sharpen his claws – catnip on and around the post is an added incentive.
  • Declawing: Remember that declawing is cruel and unnecessary and should never be considered. For humane solutions, click here (declawing article)

For more info on ways to distract your cat from clawing, click here (discipline article)



If you are considering having your cat declawed, here is some valuable information that might change your mind. In this article you will learn exactly what declawing is and the physical and behavioral issues that can result, as well as humane alternatives that have been proven to work!

  • According to a study published in the Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery, declawed cats are 7 times more likely to pee in inappropriate places, 3 times more likely to show aggression and approximately 30% develop over-grooming behavior.
  • It’s interesting to note that declawing is pretty much an American thing. It is banned in most European countries as being an “inhumane and unnecessary mutilation.” In 2019, New York was the first U.S. state to ban declawing, and others are expected to follow suit.

So why are so many places banning it? Let’s discuss what declawing actually is.

Well, it’s not a day at the spa as far as your cat is concerned. Some pet owners think of declawing as a “mani-pedi” for cats, but it’s not.

  • Unlike human nails, a cat’s claws are attached to bone. Declawing is a surgical procedure that slices through tendons and nerves to remove the last segment of bone in each toe. If this same surgery was performed on a human being, it would be like cutting off each finger at the last knuckle.
  • Declawing involves painful surgery and a painful recovery process. While recuperating, your cat still has to walk and scratch in the litter box, even though these simple activities cause extreme pain.
  • Declawing leaves your cat defenseless outside. At some point in their lives, many cats will run outside through a door accidentally left open. A declawed cat is defenseless if attacked by another animal and is unable to climb a tree to escape.


  • Permanent pain and discomfort in the paws (nails may grow back inside), causing many cats to develop the habit of chewing on the stubs.
  • Life-threatening infections
  • Tissue necrosis (tissue death)
  • Bone spurs
  • Permanent nerve damage
  • Lameness and difficulty walking. Because declawing permanently deforms a cat’s foot, he is forced to change the way he walks and has to support himself on the soft cartilage that was formerly part of the joint.
  • Declawed cats are also 3 times more likely to develop permanent back pain and arthritis because of this unnatural way of walking.



It’s not uncommon for cats to develop new behavioral problems after declawing and there are many studies documenting these changes:


  • Litter box problems: According to the Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery, declawed cats are 7 times more likely to pee in inappropriate places. Cat owners are usually advised to use shredded newspaper for several days following surgery so that ordinary litter does not get into or irritate the paws. However, because this substance is unfamiliar to the cat and because scratching in the pan will likely cause pain, many cats will begin to avoid using the litter box. They are more likely to urinate on soft surfaces like carpets, furniture or clothing because it’s less painful than the hard litter in the litterbox.


  • Aggression: That same study showed that declawed cats exhibit 3 times more overall aggression than cats that are not. Cats have no way of communicating that they are in pain and will “act out” or become more aggressive because of this. They may resort to biting when their owner tries to pick them up or even touch them.


  • Overgrooming: Cats are among the most fastidious of creatures and normally spend at least 1/4 of their waking hours tending to their fur. However, declawing can create a psychological issue in your cat which results in over-grooming. This can create additional pain or discomfort and lead to skin infections involving the abdomen, legs, flanks, chest and other easily reached areas of the body. Approximately 30% of declawed cats develop this habit, which can result in bald patches, rashes and scabs.



This may have convinced you that declawing is a painful and drastic step to take, but you may be left wondering how to better protect your household furniture and furnishings, not to mention your own skin. We’re happy to report that there are acceptable and yet effective solutions to these issues, without causing a lifetime of pain to your feline. Read further to find out what will work best.


  1. Scratching posts: These satisfy your cat’s natural instinct to sharpen its claws. Provide two or more stable scratching posts and boards around your home. Offer different materials like sisal, carpet, wood, and cardboard and well as different styles (vertical or horizontal). Use catnip or toys to entice them. Show your cat, by engaging in fun activities at the post, that this is the correct place to scratch. For more info on how to get your cat to scratch where he is supposed to, click here (Discipline article)


  1. Nail covers: These are lightweight vinyl caps that are affixed to your cat’s front claws with a special glue-like adhesive. They are easy to apply, last for about 4 to 6 weeks and are an inexpensive solution. They usually come in sets of 40 (which would cover 4 applications) and are available for under $15.00. They are available in clear or a variety of colored caps which will make your cat look like it really did spend a day at the spa! These are not recommended for outdoor cats.


  1. Nail trimming: Cutting your cat’s nails on a regular basis ismuch easier than you think! I always show my new cat adopters how to take care of this important step, especially  in a kitten’s first year of life when they are the most active and learning where they should and shouldn’t exercise their scratching urges. Set your phone to remind you every 2 weeks and you can use regular human nail clippers! There are numerous videos on YouTube to walk you through the process. For more info and step-by-step instructions, click here (nail cutting article).

 In summary: Now that you know the facts about declawing and the easy alternatives, we are sure you will no longer consider this painful and inhumane surgical procedure. Your cat will definitely thank you.


Core Kitten Vaccinations (FVRCP & Rabies)

All kittens should receive a vaccination that protects against feline rhinotracheitis, feline calicivirus, and feline panleukopenia (FVRCP). These three conditions are highly contagious airborne illnesses that can potentially be fatal in a kitten with a developing immune system. Calicivirus is one of the most common viral causes of feline upper respiratory infections. Panleukopenia (the P in FVRCP), also called feline distemper, can lead to death in 90 percent of cases in kittens under 6 months of age and reason the FVRCP vaccine is so important. The vaccination schedule for FVRCP begins between: 6–8 weeks old, or when you get your new cat/kitten. Booster shots are given: Every 3–4 weeks after. Last FVRCP booster vaccine given: at 16–20 weeks old. *3 total FVRCP vaccines are given with 3-4 weeks in-between each dose*

Rabies is the other core kitten vaccination. Rabies is a fatal disease that can affect not only cats but also many other animals, including humans. Your kitten can receive a rabies vaccination as early as 12 weeks of age, but this depends on state laws and the veterinarian.

Non-Core Kitten Vaccinations

Non-core kitten vaccinations include feline leukemia (FeLV), feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV), feline infectious peritonitis (FIP), Chlamydophila felis, and feline Giardia vaccines.

The FeLV vaccine is recommended by some veterinarians for all kittens, while others recommend the vaccine only for those kittens at risk of disease. The decision should be based on your pet’s lifestyle and a discussion with your vet.

SHOT CLINIC’S: Here is a local shot clinic in Volusia County:   Through CCFAW, their vaccines are at great prices and administered by a veterinarian. We always recommend calling ahead to get prices at other shot clinics. Not all are reasonably priced.


Top 10 Animal Toxins found in the Kitchen

While the list is long, we wanted to know: What are ten of the most dangerous — and perhaps unsuspecting — things in the kitchen readily available to dogs and cats that pet owners may not know about? Check out the list below and the reason why:

  1. Coffee pods, beans, and coffee grounds:  are a very dangerous and toxic chemical to cats and dogs. Ingestion can be life threatening. According to the Pet Poison Helpline, a moderate amount of coffee can easily cause death in small dogs or cats. Be careful where you store your coffee. Also be careful of chocolate, soft drinks, energy drinks, coffee- or chocolate-flavored yogurt or ice cream, pain relievers, diet pills and even some caffeine-infused energy foods such as oatmeal and sunflower seeds as they can contain enough caffeine to affect your dog’s heart, nervous system and gastrointestinal tract. 
  2. Grapes, raisins & currants: According to Pet Poison Helpline, grapes and raisins have been known to cause acute kidney failure in dogs.
  3. Xylitol/sugar-free gum/candy: Xylitol is a sugar substitute commonly used in sugarless gum, certain cough medicines, children’s chewable multi-vitamins and a variety of nut butters. Xylitol can also be found in a variety of toothpastes and there are a few peanut butter brands that now list xylitol as an ingredients
  4. Fatty table scraps: As much as your dog would love to chow down on the leftover fat trimmed from your steak, it’s a bad idea to indulge him. Avoid sharing fat-filled items like fast food, fried foods, foods cooked in grease, high fat dairy items, processed meats and junk food. These items can cause severe gastrointestinal upset in dogs. Further, pancreatitis, which can be fatal if left untreated, has been linked to the ingestion of fatty foods.
  5. Onions & Garlic: Close members of the allium family (onions, garlic, leeks, shallots, chives, scallions) and concentrated versions of them (garlic powder, dehydrated onions, onion soup mix) contain the compound thiosulphate. In dogs, thiosulphate causes hemolytic anemia. It attacks the red blood cells, causing them to burst. Signs of allium toxicity may not be apparent for three to five days after ingestion. They include vomiting, oral irritation, drooling, diarrhea, abdominal pain, lethargy, pale gums, weakness, elevated heart or respiratory rate, exercise intolerance and fainting.
  6. Compost: You might be wondering why compost is bad for your furry friend. After all, dogs eat crazier stuff than food scraps. The danger with compost lies in a fungus called tremorgenic mycotoxin that can occur in moist, decomposing food.  Poisons from molds can cause neurological symptoms such as tremors and seizure that can last hours or days if not treated rapidly. Other symptoms include vomiting, hyperactivity, depression, coma, behavior alterations, increase in heart rate, and buildup of fluid in the lungs.
  7. Human medications: One of the most dangerous rooms of the house with regard to accidental poisonings is the bedroom, since many medications are left on a nightstand. Many adult dogs and teething puppies sleep in the bed with their humans, and thus have easy access to the drugs on that nightstand. Medications left on counters in kitchens and bathrooms find their way into the stomachs of bored dogs, too. Here are a few common medications that are very harmful to dogs or cats. Aspirin, Ibuprofen, Naproxen, Indomethacin, Acetaminophen, Xanax, Ambien, Ace inhibitors, Beta Blockers, Adderall. If you pet should ingest ANY medications, call the Pet Poison Hotline and keep the bottle on hand. The vast majority of these accidental intoxications can be successfully managed with early treatment. For poisonings, the best outcomes involve seeking immediate advice from your veterinarian followed by aggressive, proactive treatment
  8. Macadamia nuts or others: Do not feed your dog nuts or any foods containing nuts. Macadamia nuts can cause serious symptoms in dogs that last up to two days, including rear leg weakness, fever, tremors and pain. Moldy walnuts, hickory nuts and pecans contain the toxin juglone, which can cause seizures and other neurological symptoms. Almonds, pistachios and non-moldy walnuts, pecans and hickory nuts can cause gastrointestinal distress or blockage in the throat or intestinal tract.
  9. Household cleaners (Oven cleaner or dishwasher detergent): Also known as alkaline substances, oven cleaners and automatic dishwasher detergents have little odor or taste, making them easier to consume by curious pets. Those convenient dishwasher pods are often targeted by pets — and children.
    Severe injury to the eyes, skin, gastrointestinal tract and respiratory system can be seen and require immediate decontamination, medication and supportive care by a veterinarian.
  10. Unbaked bread dough/alcohol: While most of us know alcohol is bad for our pets, there are some who think it’s funny to share a beer with their pet. According to the Pet Poison Helpline, alcohol poisoning in pets is all too common. You might be surprised to know where alcohol is hidden — and how your pet can become accidentally poisoned: Pure vanilla and almond extracts, certain brands of Dijon mustard, wine vinegar, wine-flavored cheeses, certain whipped creams, marinara sauces prepared with wine, chocolate truffles that may contain rum or bourbon, rum-soaked fruit cakes and unbaked dough. When the yeast in the unbaked dough ferments in your pet’s stomach, it produces carbon dioxide and alcohol which is then rapidly absorbed into the bloodstream. Ingestion of alcohol can cause dangerous drops in blood sugar, blood pressure and body temperature. Intoxicated animals can experience seizures and respiratory failure.

PET POISON HELPLINE: 1-800-213-6680

Why spay and neuter your pet?

  • Spaying and neutering makes your pet a better, more affectionate companion
  • Spaying a female before her first heat protects her from risks of uterine, ovarian, and mammary cancers.
  • Spaying a dog or cat eliminates her heat cycle. Females in heat can cry incessantly, show nervous behavior, and attract unwanted male animals. Female cats can also spray urine in the same manner that is usually associated with tomcats – lifting the tail and squirting urine on a vertical surface (my father had this personal experience until he finally got his cat spayed).
  • Spaying and neutering makes pets less likely to bite
  • Neutering your pet will make him less likely to roam the neighborhood, run away, or get into fights
  • An average cat has 1-8 kittens per litter, and 2-3 litters per year.
  • A single pair of cats and their kittens can produce as many as 420,000 kittens in just 7 years.
  • In six years, one female dog and her offspring can be the source of 67,000 puppies


Health problems that could arise in your cat

Litter box issues. This is the number one problem that people report with their cats. It can be very frustrating when this happens, but since cats can’t communicate with words, they have to try and communicate by other means. There is usually a reason cats avoid their litter box and there are many ways to resolve the issue.

  1. Talk with your veterinarian. Bladder stones, urinary tract diseases, and crystals in the urine are all reasons your cat might start avoiding the litter box. You need to rule these issues out first and a visit to your vet is necessary. Many times a cat will pee on a tile floor as it is very cooling to a pet in pain. Please be aware of odd or new behaviors.
  2. Have at least one litter box per cat. If your kitty has to stand in line before she can relieve herself, she may decide to take her bathroom break elsewhere.
  3. ALWAYS KEEP the litter box clean — even clumping litter has to be changed regularly. A rule of thumb: Clean the box at least once daily, twice if there’s more than one cat in the house.You wouldn’t want to use a dirty toilet, so don’t do that to your pet.
  4. Changes in your home can upset your felines. Being in animal rescue for 10 years now, we’ve seen it all. A lady who adopted from us changed out her carpet for tile floors. Her cats were not pleased and started peeing outside their box. She took them to her vet and they had no underlying medical issues. She ended up trying Pheromones (Feliway) which fixed the problem! I’ve also heard of other medications that can help this issue as well. New animals in the home can also create problems. Just be aware that there are many ways to correct this behavior! Please be patient with your voiceless pet.                                                                                                         Tapeworms – Looks like a piece of white rice. It is found in their feces, bedding, or around the anus of the cat or kitten.  Tapeworms are very common and generally aren’t harmful to cats. Rarely, tapeworms may cause debilitation or weight loss if they are present in large numbers. Cats become infected with tapeworms from swallowing a flea infected with a tapeworm larvae or from eating infected mice or other exposed animals. To rid your cat/kitten (over 7 weeks old) of these, purchase Praziquantel Feline Tape Worm Tablets or liquid. Usually you can buy this over the counter at your local pet supermarkets (Petco/PetSmart). Check with your vet if you have any concerns or questions. One pill costs anywhere from 4-8 dollars. Some vets like to charge you a visit fee for this issue, while others will let you walk in to grab the pill.
    *Here is the dosing chart for Praziquantel Feline Tape Worm Tablets 23mg each (not located on the bottle). 4 lbs and under = ½ tablet,   5-11 lbs = 1 tablet, Over 11 lbs = 1 ½ tablets.
  5. A simple illness can overwhelm a kitten very quickly. If your kitten becomes lethargic or has any drastic changes in behavior. call a vet ASAP. Your kitten relies on your for help.

Spay/Neuter Locations

7 DISCOUNT SPAY AND NEUTER LOCATIONS *If you know of other locations not listed here that offer discount spay and neuter please contact us so we can add that location to our master list!

[expand title=”1) REDINGER CLINIC
“] Located within the Arnie Foundation complex. They offer discount neuters ($25) and discount spays ($40). They also offer LOW COST vaccinations (1 vaccination for $10, 2 for $15, and 3 for $25) and identification chips incase your pet ever gets lost. Identification chips only cost $15.98. *Make sure to REGISTER your microchips after receiving one!

****FOR DOGS**** (at Redinger Clinic) # 310-4935: Male (up to 29 lbs) $45 and Female (up to 29 lbs) $55. Male (30-59 lbs) $55 and Female (30-59 lbs) $65. Male (60-80 lbs) $60 and Female (60-80 lbs) $75. Male (over 80 lbs) $75 and each additional 10 lbs is $5 dollars and Female (over 80 lbs) $90 and each additional 10 lbs is $5 dollars.

WebsiteMap | Call (386) 310-4935

[/expand] [expand title=”2) CCFAW (Concerned Citizens for Animal welfare)
“]** Located in the Port Orange/Daytona area You can go to their website to see upcoming days for LOW COST SHOT CLINICS. ALSO at their shot clinics you can purchase flea meds and heart worm medications (with proof of heart worm test). CCFAW sets up spay and neuter appointments at participating vet clinics east side of the county. Cat Spay costs $45 and a cat neuter $35. Shots are super inexpensive (rabies 10 dollars and distemper 10 dollars).

***DOGS*** CCFAW also does spay and neuter at a discount for dogs. Please contact them for prices. You can email CCFAW so they can schedule your discount spay/neuter/shots at CCFAW@CCFAW.ORG.

For Dog and Cat Spay and Neuter Call:

Cheryl Robel @ (386)-760-2324

For Trap/Neuter/Return (TNR) and Feral or Free Roaming Cat Issues Call:

Pat Mihalic @ 386-405-1559

For Low Cost Pet Shot Clinic  and General Information Call:

Marea DeMauro @ 386-760-6330

[/expand] [expand title=”3) “Volusia Society for Animal Aid” in Edgewater
“]Cat neuters $60 Cat spay’s $80. Shots are $16 for distemper and $10 for rabies *Feral Cats* $45 for spay and $35 for neuter (additional $20 for shots). Will receive an ear tip as well. Dogs will go by weight. Please call for more information. 4) FLAGLER CATS located in BUNNELL Address: 2550 N. State St. (US1) Suite #11 Bunnell, Fl 32110 Phone: (386) 503-4250 Male cats – $45 includes neuter, rabies, distemper shot, full exam and pain meds Female cats- $60 includes spay, rabies, distemper shot, full exam and pain meds *Feral cats*- $25 includes spay/neuter and shots WITH an EAR-TIP (cat must come in a trap)

Map | Call (386)-957-3994

[/expand] [expand title=”4) FLAGLER HUMANE SOCIETY
“]The Flagler Humane Society offers two discount spay/neuter programs for cats: Option #1: $25 dollars for spay or neuter for a cat which INCLUDES the rabies shot and MANDATORY ear tip (Ear-tip is an universal signal that shows the animal has been fixed). Distemper shot is an additional $15. Option #2: $50 for a spay or $35 for a neuter for a cat. Rabies cost $12 and distemper $15. This is WITH NO EAR TIP *** WIth this facility, you must go into the shelter and fill out the paperwork and PRE-PAY for the spay/neuter appointment. No payments over the phone. ****FOR DOGS*** $95 = female spay of over 80 lbs $80 = female spay 3-80 lbs $80 = Male neuter over 80 lbs $65 = Male neuter 3-80 lbs Rabies costs $12 and Distemper at $15. Please call for any additional information or check out web

WebsiteMap | Call (386)-445-1814

[/expand] [expand title=”5) PET VET CRUISER
“]for the county if a person lives in the unincorporated part of the county or the cities of Deland or South Daytona. The county offers a Free Roaming Cat program that is unlimited for these residents and the cost is $25per cat no matter what the sex is. This program is not income based. This includes the spay/neuter, a rabies vaccination and also the ear notch. an***For household cats, If you qualify you may be able to receive low cost spay/neuter as low as $15.00. You must show proof. Please call the following numbers to get more information.
Daytona Beach: (386)-323-3575
Deland: (386)-626-6643
New Smyrna Beach: (386)-424-6875

[/expand] [expand title=”6) NEUTER COMMUTER in Ocala (for Marion County residents only)
“]$40 dollars for cats/dogs male or female. The 40 dollars includes spay/neuter, rabies shot, and micro-chipping. Call a month or so in advance to make an appointment.

Map | Call (352)-307-1351

[/expand] [expand title=”7) Misfit Low Cost Spay/Neuter Clinic
“]Cat spays and neuter $50 Dogs (goes by weight) Visit website at: PLEASE HELP SPREAD THE WORD ON DISCOUNT SPAY/NEUTER so less kittens/dogs are born which will give homes to the ones in shelters! Our local humane society euthanizes 50 a day, so please spread the word and never make the humane society the last place your pet lives.

Map | Call (352)-742-0690


Why spay and neuter cats and dogs?

The single most important thing that we can do to save cats and dogs from all the suffering and death that their overpopulation causes is to spay and neuter them. Spaying and neutering are routine, affordable surgeries that can prevent thousands of animals from being born, only to suffer and struggle to survive on the streets, be abused by cruel or neglectful people, or be euthanized in animal shelters for lack of a loving home.Spaying and neutering makes a big difference: Just one unaltered female dog and her offspring can produce 67,000 puppies in only six years. In seven years, one female cat and her offspring can produce an incredible 370,000 kittens!

Sterilized animals live longer, happier lives. Spaying eliminates the stress and discomfort that females endure during heat periods, eliminates the risk of uterine cancer, and greatly reduces the risk of mammary cancer. Neutering makes males far less likely to roam or fight, prevents testicular cancer, and reduces the risk of prostate cancer. Altered animals are less likely to contract deadly, contagious diseases, such as feline AIDS and feline leukemia that are spread through bodily fluid.

*****REMEMBER you can always contact your LOCAL humane society to find out where you can get your dog/cat spayed or neutered at a discount if this list is not helpful to you. IF they can’t do it for a discount they will most likely be able to give you information/numbers for places that do.*******


Many people have this unrealistic idea that if they bring their pet to an animal shelter that they will be placed in loving homes. That is very far from the truth and I wanted to share a few statistics from our local humane societies.


At Halifax Humane Society on LPGA in Daytona Beach (HHS) during cat and kitten season, about 1,000 a month are EUTHANIZED. This averages out to 50 cats/kittens A DAY (50 per day x 20 working days).

SEVHS took in 2409 animals in 2013 and they euthanized 265 dogs and 1,385 cats.  So, out of 2,409 animals only 759 were placed in homes, which left 1,650 euthanized.


It is not the shelters fault, it is the fault of pet owners who do not get their pets fixed and let them wander or decide they no longer want them and surrender them to a shelter. Please don’t ever give your animal the ultimate fate of being euthanized at a shelter. Give them a chance by finding them a suitable home. Animals do not get a choice of who becomes their caregiver, so don’t give them the choice of death.